The Dushanbe airport's departure building is tremendously more comfortable than the shed (honest) in which they conduct their international arrivals and customs. I'm not saying it was much, but then, the bar hadn't been set very high upon my arrival the prior week. In theory, this is all "temporary" while the new airport is being constructed - except there isn't any construction underway, or anyone pledged to provide the funding. I'd guess China will eventually chip in - they're building EVERYTHING else in Tajikistan (major tunnel mountain passes to Kyrgyzstan, all roads throughout the country, several hydro power stations, and there's even a rumor of a direct Tajik-China railroad - that would be HUGE).
Leaving was easy enough, and the plane (same model as the one I took down... AVN-20, maybe?) was only half-full, leaving plenty of space to spread out. Good thing, since my pack wasn't considered big enough to be checked as luggage. Odd system.
On the flight to Bishkek I made a point of not dozing, and was rewarded with some great views of the Western Pamirs and some of the many mountains that make transit in Tajik so incredibly difficult.
Back at Manas airport, the US presence was unchanged. Technically, when I left the US was still preparing to withdraw by August 11 (a new agreement had been reached for a 1-year extension, but hadn't yet been signed - it was a source of some local tension that, as late as July 1, the US had made no preparations to leave even though a new agreement had been denied up to that point), but the new agreement was ratified by parliament last week.
I'm not sure if the half-dozen US Air Force cargo planes (mammoth C-5s, C-17s, and one C-130) had even shifted around parking spaces in my absence. While I was gone, US military also started making refueling stops at the invitation of the Turkmen government (quite unusual), and I saw some US cargo planes at the Dushanbe airport as well.
Foreign deployment of US forces and equipment is not new, but it usually involves US air bases, independent of local control and out of the public eye. The "lily pad" approach in Central Asia seems to be gaining local popularity (it's a direct way for poor govs to get $$$ for facilities rental), but I don't think Russia, or more importantly China, is that happy about it.
I had a little trouble with my Kyrgyz Visa. While it was called a "sinlge entry" visa when I got it in Bishkek, it was infact better thought of as a "stay here but don't leave" visa. I left, and thus it shouldn't have allowed me back in Kyrgyzstan - but I had to try. The Manas airport entry visa costs $70, and for that price tag, I can afford to stand in line for an hour and test my luck.
Alas, on this particular Wednesday morning, the Kyrgyz foreign passport desk had an especially efficient (and I must say quick-witted) staff on duty. The odds of that happening are Vegas-low. Since it's Bishkek, this didn't get me in any trouble, just sent me to the back of the line, and I had to buy another (3rd) Kyrgyz visa. This one also single entry, but not expiring until July 30.
So - if I miss my flight on the 27th, at least I can't be arrested right outside the airport.
It was a good week in Dushanbe, and now that I'm back in Bishkek, it seems like I have such a short time left. Only 12 days! That's barely enough time stock up on souvenirs, watch the July 23 "election" and make a side trip - Issyk Kul or Osh???
How does 12 days seem like such a short time when 7 days could provide such outlandishly long blog posts?
One day at a time, I guess.
Weber (on the lamb)
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