Bishkek Basics, vol. 1

One of the reasons I keep writing larger "theory" blog posts is because, in order to describe what I'm actually doing requires a lot of background explanation in order to make sense.

However, since the purpose of this blog is to 1) keep friends and family apprised of my travels and experiences, and 2) to inform/educate my friends and family about Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek, and Central Asia generally, I suppose some background is in order.

If you really want a fully-rounded understanding in textual form, I suggest you delve into one of only a handful of good textbooks that cover it - I'd recommend those by Rafis Abazov, for example.

Instead, I will offer here, in an indeterminate number of volumes, a few important observations or descriptions which will hopefully help you form in your mind a "virtual Bishkek" in which the various dramas and narratives of this blog may take place. For a cartographic reference, see my evolving Bishkek googlemap.

Again, this is neither encyclopedic in its completeness or organization - essentially I am just vomitting up details as they occur to me. Tasty stuff.

First, keep in mind that I have thus far only seen, and can therefore only speak about, Bishkek. It is the biggest city in Kyrgyzstan, and probably the only "metropolitan" one. Further, not only is Bishkek unique within Kyrgyzstan, it is (from what I've been told) radically different in layout, society, and many other details from virtually every other city in Central Asia (maybe Astana or Almaty as the exceptions). While I am trying to speak with some force to set the observations I've had into your mind, please accept that I am doing this aware of Serious limitations, and with the full expectation that much of what I now report may need clarification, or complete revision.

Disclaimers aside, I will now assert one thing definitively: Bishkek is flat. Like, Oklahoma flat.

The country of Kyrgyzstan, on the other hand, is 90% mountainous - not like "hilly," but like Tian Shan "roof of the world" mountainous. Bishkek lies to the direct south of the Alatau, a related mountain chain, its outskirts abutting the foothills that quickly transform into snow-capped peaks some 5 to 9 thousand kms higher.

As a flat city with few natural barriers, and as a city founded in the 19th century, it is laid out on a strict grid system, again much like Oklahoma (City). The streets are wide and heavily-used,

and every main thoroughfair is bordered by equally well-paved, and often shaded, sidewalks. The smaller streets have smaller sidewalks, and feel more like walking through an oddly-paved forest (see picture). The city maintains its (tens of) thousands of trees through a simple irrigation ditch system that doubles as city-wide flood control. One last herbonomic observation - though not named this to my knowledge, Bishkek is The City of Roses. They're everywhere, and grow in huge patches in every park, and alongside most government structures. As a result, walking in the park at sunset smells like Valentines day in America.

The buildings tend to be of cinderblock construction, but display the full variety of elegance and stoicness (stoicocity?) possible from such humble beginnings. Only the enormous soviet-style government buildings have more distinct architecture, and this is of a universally grand, geometic, but light gray variety. There are no "ancient" structures of any kind, any where.

The cars are mosty German (Audio, VW, BMW) or Japanese (Honda, Mazda, Toyota), with a few carry-over Russian Lada's (which make a VW bug obsession look tepid - to love a Lada is a true labor of romanticism). Public transport consists of electric-powered trolleybuses (about 20 cents/ride) on the main drags, modern buses, and a small armada of minibuses on regular but unposted routes and swarms of taxis - who take you anywhere in the city for approx $2.50 US.

Currency is the Som ($1= 43 som), though for larger purchases (cars, furniture, etc) US dollars are preferred. The bills come in denominations as small as 1 som (approx. 2 cents), with coins in the 1/2 som, 1 som, and 5 som value. Basically, it's all paper-based.

The city's infrastructure is fully functional and up to Western standards (running water, electricity, sewage, flushies, etc), though I have my suspicions about just how "modern" the system is that keeps it all running. Still, it must be admitted, it does keep running.

Broadband internet is commercially available, and supplied to office buildings and a decent % of the shops that serve as Internet cafes, though the latter term is loose, catering to videogamming teenagers and working professionals. For residential use, dial-up seems to be the only option for those of less-than-truly-extravagant means.

In addition to internet stations, Bishkek has plenty of pharmacies (Apteka's), though they're more like the CVS/D-R you'll find in New York than a traditional corner drug store. Boutiques are also very popular, though I'll address Bishkek fashion later. There are larger stores, including one of two "malls," though it's a hard comparison. Adidas, UC Beneton, and several high-caliber Euro brands have also setup shop, but these aren't widespread. The majority of the businesses are small, family-owned shops either resale or occasionally of local manufacture. Mostly I see goods stores (food or clothing) more than services, but that's pretty arbitrary. On the sidwalk are countless additional "hut shops" setup to quickly vend drinks, snacks, magazines & cigarettes. Also, cell-phone refill stations are Everywhere!

Bishkek has a population of 1 million people, about 10-20% arrived from the rural areas since 1991; they have largely established "suburbs" along the outskirts of Bishkek in which they continue living, "the village lifestyle within city limits" as a colleage explained it. Of the 1 million, about 30% are ethnic Russians (whatever that means), and their presence in Bishkek is practically the exclusive enclave of Russians anywhere in Kyrgyzstan. As a result of this strong presence, and the long history of Russian colonial, and then Soviet, domination, the primary language is still Russian, though this has already shifted dramatically as English, Chinese, French or German replaced Russian as the preferred 2nd language in the 1990s. Still, it is expected for Russian to be understood by one and all within Bishkek, while Russians are generally not expected to understand spoken Kyrgyz.

Interestingly, to run for President of Kyrgyzstan, you must demonstrate your Kyrgyz language skills by passing a series of televised tests, each of which alternately serves to allow the candidates to pre-speech their platform (in Kyrgyz) in the course of proving fluency. It should be noted, about 1/2 of all applicants fail this rigorous language test.

In addition to the strong Russian cultural influence, Bishkek also has pockets of inhabitants from India, Iran, China and the other Central Asian Republics (mostly Uzbeks/Kazakhs), which leave a mark on the overall social network.

Islam in Kyrgyzstan is a hard thing to put one's finger on, and in Bishkek it may be even more elusive. It is generally accepted that Turkey is a valid example of a "secular Islamic" state, in that it is somehow both "fully secular" in its governance, but also "fully Muslim" in its society. That's a dicey argument, but consider this: If flying from Riyadh to Istanbul demonstrates just how secular Istanbul is, then flying from Istanbul to Bishkek is an equivalent experience. Simplistic markers like veils or beards are almost totally absent, but more valid suggestions of a non-traditional Islamic presence are also available. There remain only a small number of mosques in town - especially when compared with Istanbul or the Middle East - and the adherence of daily prayes, or the Ramadan fast is rather rare. Still, I've been told that most non-Russians in Bishkek do identify themselves as Muslim, and as I'm in no position to define their religious beliefs for them, I accept that they practice a variet of Islam for which I have few parallels outside the comparison to American Christianity vis Christianity in, for example, Greece. Rather than a connection between self, faith and community that necessarily intersects ritual and the physical church several times every day, it seems (emphasis) that Islam in

Bishkek is something to which everyone ascribes as a matter of personal faith rather than communal identity or ritual.

I could go on-and-on with this topic, but my scant knowledge suggests moving on would be the wiser course.

I mentioned earlier the idea of fashion, and as I am no Michael Kors myself, let me just state it thusly: Russians seem to dress like Eurotrash, which Kyrgyz (especially the women) out-chic even the NYC crowd. I understand that's quite a statement, but I stand by it. Whereas Eurotrash tries to be outrageous, it often comes off as cheap, blunt, or even skanky. Kyrgyz fashonistas (and this isn't everyone, but does claim a high % of 20-40 somethings) are very intelligent and refined in their distinctiveness. I would emphasize that they are Not copying Western high fashion, but rather - dare I say - improving upon it. It's the same language - aesthetic lines, fabrics, patterns, cuts, body shape, heels, etc. - they just speak it very fluently.

I have been speaking here about Bishkek as an anomaly within Kyrgyzstan, and perhaps Central Asia. I want to address one point which, as I understand it, is more universal.

First, please understand that until the 18th century, the peoples of Central Asia were not all identical, but could certainly claim to be more alike than different, and definitely claimed access to the same cultural heritage. Since the demarkation of Central Asia by Russian (and then Soviet) administrative policies, the once closely-associated cultures have begun to differentiate. First it was the creation of written languages to prove that Kazakh was not Kyrgyz (even though they differ only in some vocabulary), then local heroes - once considered universally "Central Asian" - were retroactively assigned to one "nationality" or another. The artificial creation of the 5 central asian groups (and their many subgroups) was a tremendous project of Soviet ethnography on parallel with the British and French efforts to create a genetic color-scale of their colonial subjects. It warrants several more long, boring posts, but I'll spare you for now.

Instead, I'll end Bishkek Basics (vol 1) with this light note:

The social trait I have noticed in Bishkek, which I believe transcends all the terminologies and "westernization" or "Russification" of the past 200 years is a profound fascination - even bordering on obsession - with children.

As always, speaking in generalizations is dangerous, but I have noticed that when a child - especially a baby - is present, that odd little creature and its antics become the absolute center of the immediately-surrounding universe. Teenagers and business people alike stop what they're doing to oogle over a stranger's child, and entire families will occupy themselves with the entertainment of a toddler.

It contrasts strongly with my general American perspective, in which I'm sure we love our children no less, but we cannot help thinking of them as a regular distraction, and an occasional nuisance. Or even more starkly, the New York penchant for nannies. The Kyrgyz I've spoken to on the subject were horrified at the concept of being too busy to take care of their own child - regardless of whether both parents worked or not.

The above photo was taken on June 1, International Childrens Day, in the main Paniflov park, when practially every kid in Bishkek swarmed downtown for a variety of festivals, rides, etc. I explained to my co-worker that we didn't celebrate this holiday in America, and he was genuinely shocked. That, I think, is interesting.

Having now completed vol.1 of this laborious process of background, and perhaps not accomplishing so much in the process, I am at least now free to proceed with the less intellectual, but I'm sure more interesting, postings about what I've actually been doing within the world described above.

I do hope you'll forgive my method, and provide all the feedback the little comments form allows.

Weber(on the lamb)